More recently, it has also been associated with nationalist violence. But another side of Trabzon is also beginning to emerge.
Thanks in part to a spillover from Istanbul, Bodrum and other tourist-throng destinations, this former Byzantine capital is becoming known for its untrammeled bazaars, spectacular cultural treasures and other picture-perfect attractions. The city already gets a fair share of cruise ships, especially luxury liners that hop around the Black Sea. With its antique center, bustling cobblestone streets and ancient wooden houses leaking fragrant smoke, Trabzon is a miniature Istanbul — without the crowds.
View all New York Times newsletters. During the day, rickety bazaars sell everything from silver-blue anchovies to underwear to handsome copper pitchers about 30 new liras.
Shops along Kunduracilar Street specialize in hasir bilezik, handmade wire-thin silver and gold bracelets that cost thousands of dollars.
Mothers in headscarves rush children past the sineKahve cafe Gazipasa mahallesi, 8A Cudi Bey Mektep Sokak, , where goateed intellectuals read glossy magazines.
